Tuesday, November 4, 1997

Santiago 1

We arrived about 0900 in Santiago (de Chile). It was the morning rush hour so the metro was very crowded, but it was only a couple of stations to the hostel, which is centrally located. It was clean but the toilets and baths were very cramped. I went for a walk to change money, reconfirm my air ticket and have lunch. The city looked provincial compared with Buenos Aires which felt like a grand city, not surprising when you compare their populations.

La Moneda (The Mint) is the presidential palace. On a day of infamy, 11th September 1973 (overshadowed exactly 28 years later), aided by the CIA, the Chilean armed forces staged a coup and overthrew President Salvador Allende. During the coup, the air force bombarded La Moneda. The ensuing military dictatorship, headed by Pinochet, went on to abuse human rights including disappearing thousands of opponents. In my travels in Chile, I sometimes came across graffiti with the word pin8. In Spanish that would be read as pin-ocho so I guessed that this was a reference to him. Later Chileans confirmed my guess. By the way if Allende sounds familiar, Isabel Allende the author is a cousin of Salvador.

Pinochet's regime ruled until 1990. In 1982 Chile suffered a banking crisis then from about 1990 onwards Chile went on to achieve better economic growth than the Latin American average, which continues to this day.

I was feeling tired in a new city and had several days in front of me, so I went back to nap. My dorm mate was from Oregon and trying to decide whether to go north or south, because his friend would join him in Puerto Montt. I gave him whatever information I had. In the late afternoon we went for a walk in the city, talking and pointing out landmarks, including the mercado central. By chance we bumped into another hosteller, a German from Frankfurt. He looked like a younger version of George Michaels, was quiet and amicable. We took dinner at a pizza restaurant. I didn't like the crust, it was too soft. After dinner we walked to the Plaza de Armas where there were political speakers and evangelist singers.

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