Sunday, November 2, 1997

Pucón

Nobody was awake in the hotel when I left at 0900 so I just left the key in the door lock. I took a minibus about 20 km east along Lake Villarrica to Pucón. It's particularly popular with ecotourists. I checked in at the ¡ecole! hostel and what do you know, there was the tour group from the Andean crossing again. One woman was leaving for Santiago that evening, but the rest were staying on.

I was looking for a soak at a hot spring (terma). This being volcano country, there were several to choose from but they were out of Pucón. So I let myself be talked into a two hour hire by a taxi driver at the coop stand for 12,000 pesos (about 30USD). I suspect I could have bargained harder. The thermal facility has both a communal swimming pool and cabins. There were different mineral waters available and this was the potash cabin. It was good to soak the old skin off.

The Villarrica volcano is a much more visible manifestation of geothermal activity. It's highly active as you can see from the fumes. It is possible to climb it, but I had not the desire, time or money.

After that lovely soak, I napped very soundly in the afternoon. The comfy bed and the cool breeze filtering in helped. I think the lunch I had of cazuela, steak and mash was another factor.

In the evening I took a walk by the lake. By now the breeze had strengthened to a dusty wind. The beach was of dark volcanic sand. There was construction in progress, probably more holiday apartments being built. I tried to visit the peninsula which sticks out into the lake, but it was off limits.

Back at the hostel a couple of USAns from San Francisco who had been on the Inca trail were regaling the group with tales. Perhaps it interested them because they were headed for Peru next. The group went out for dinner while I updated the diary.

When they returned I joined them for a drink on the hostel patio. I didn't enjoy the company much. Everyone seemed to fit their respective national stereotype. I think it was more a symptom of my growing homesickness. I thought one of the petite British girls resembled Joely Richardson.

That night the strong winds shook the windows noisily. But because of the thermal bath, the alcohol, the moving air and the very comfortable doona, it was one of the best nights I had on the trip.

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