Chiloé

It was warm and cozy in the residencial and I would have liked to sleep in, but the weather was fine so I had to go to the island of Chiloé while I had the chance because the weather in the crossing could be contrary. Breakfast, which included homemade bread, was taken in the residencial's kitchen, where a large wood fire stove served both for cooking and warming the whole room. The owner's family was present and family and guests ate together.

A story by Bruce Chatwin was also responsible for my interest in Chiloé. The island has a rich mythology from indigenous religions that survived the Spanish invasion due to the isolation of the island from the mainland. Chile is a thin country, and towards the south breaks up into islands accessible only by sea. Puerto Montt is the end of Route 5 on the mainland; the ferry link and the main highway on Chiloé are a continuation of Route 5.

At the bus station who should I bump into again but the same group of 9 travellers also going to Chiloé. They however left the bus at Ancud, while I continued to Castro, the provincial capital. A German youth with an Air Iberia bag was saying goodbye to relatives. (As the name suggests, many Germans settled in the region.) A cocker spaniel whimpered in a cage. Would it suffer in the hold for the journey to Santiago?

A huge white cross on the bluff overlooking the harbour was visible from Route 5. The bus drove onto the ferry. (The same company ran both.) The channel crossing over the deep blue water was pleasant. Chileans smiled easily, were curious about visitors and friendly. An agricultural student on the bus told me hay que hacer todos (we have to be jacks of all trades). There was a blonde, all powder and lipstick, from Santiago, and her companion. 

I was very fortunate with the weather, it was an abnormally sunny day. The landscape was lush and green. Hedges of yellow phlox brightened up the scene. The wet fields and mud showed that the weather could be bad on other days. I fetched up in Castro. Everything in town seemed just a little broken down. Poor people seemed to be more prevalant on Chiloé. There was an artisan market near the waterfront. I was tempted but decided to wait until Santiago to buy any souvenirs.

At the waterfront were palafitos (stilt dwellings), which are typical of Castro. With directions from a local I found Donde Eladio, a restaurant serving curanto, a regional specialty. It was a very filling lunch.

The cathedral of Castro is painted salmon pink and blue. The exterior is metal sheeting. You can see on one side that they were soliciting donations for repairs.

A schoolkid mural expressed concern about the environmental impact of salmon farming. A girl in a pastry shop was visibly curious about me.

On the return journey I got a view of the ferry going the other direction framed against Osorno volcano in the background.