Tuesday, October 21, 1997

Puerto Madryn

Puerto Madryn was named in 1865 by the first 153 immigrants from Wales, after the estate of one of the founders of the Welsh settlement in Patagonia. It is protected by the Golfo Nuevo and is an important resort town. Signs in the railway station were in several languages. My reason for coming was to take a whale and seal tour at Peninsula Valdés. I made the booking at a local travel agency for the next day. The saleswoman also confirmed that I could book the Punta Tombo tour from the city of Trelew, another former Welsh settlement about 60 km south.

The hotel was renovating for the coming season, but the woman receptionist was slightly grumpy. In one of the cupboards of my room I found a book of Roald Dahl stories that came from a local bookstore. Probably left behind by a previous tourist. The town looked moderately well off and had artisan and other specialty shops. Also surfing and sailing schools. The supermarket was well stocked. There were many kids in the street, from a school excursion perhaps. A group of darker skinned people turned out to be Chilean visitors.

With the booking made, I had the day at my disposal so I took myself for a walk on the beach. There was a long stretch of brown sand between land and sea. The wind created swirling patterns of drifting sand. I had to shake sand out of my ears every now and then. That's a feature of Patagonia, the constant wind.

In the evening I took dinner at the pokie club. As expected it was pub quality food. There was a football match on TV with very intrusive ads, for Reebok, for example. According to the news there had been floods in Entre Rios and Corrientes provinces, which I had passed through a week ago. Looks like I got out in time.

The evening felt cold because skies were clear so the land lost heat quickly after sunset, and because of the wind, always the wind.

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